The Best Town in Tuscany

I know that to label anything as "the best" is very subjective. However, this is not my first, second or even third trip to Tuscany. I have lost count of how many times I have been here over the last 30+ years. I have seen small unknown villages plus the more famous towns and villages like Montereggione, Certaldo, Montepulciano, Greve, and Volterra plus, of course, the bigger centres of Firenze and Siena. Of all the places I have been here, the one that consistently at the top for me is San Gimignano. Its ambiance and setting are irresistible to me. So, when we were planning this trip with a limited amount of time in Italy, this place was a must even if it meant we didn't have time to see other places on our way to La Spezia (north and west).

The historic centre of San Gimignano is a designated UNESCO World Heritage site. Encircled by 13th-century walls, it is famous for its medieval architecture, unique in the preservation of about a dozen of its tower houses which, with its hilltop setting and encircling walls, form "an unforgettable skyline". Within the walls, the well-preserved buildings include notable examples of both Romanesque and Gothic architecture, with outstanding examples of secular buildings as well as churches dating from the 14th and 15th centuries. Its old town centers on Piazza della Cisterna, a triangular square lined with medieval houses with the old well in the centre. It is famous for its skyline of medieval towers, including the stone Torre Grossa. The patrician families who controlled the town built around 72 tower-houses (some as high as 50 m) as symbols of their wealth and power. Although only 14 survive, San Gimignano has retained its feudal atmosphere and appearance. The town also has several masterpieces of 14th- and 15th-century Italian art.

The town also is known for saffron, the Golden Ham, pecorino cheese and its white wine, Vernaccia di San Gimignano, produced from the ancient variety of Vernaccia grape which is grown on the sandstone hillsides of the area.

Not surprising, the town is inundated with tourists and, yesterday, finding parking was a bit of a challenge. There are at least 4 lots but the higher the number, the further down the hill they are from the town. We ended up in #4 mid-afternoon and managed to climb the 4 flights of stairs up through other parts of the parking lot to finally get to the elevator which takes less fit people (me) up the last two flights into the old town. In spite of all the people speaking every language you can think of, there is still a real sense you are in a medieval city.

We went into the Piazza della Cisterna and had lunch. There is a gelateria on the square claiming to have the best gelato in the world. It must be pretty famous as, while we were having lunch, the lineup for a taste was rarely less the 30 or 40 people. We resisted! We also spent some time shopping as the leather shops here have a wonderful selection of products at good prices and, of course, there are the "foodie" and souvenir shops where one can always find something to buy.

The following day, we went in at 9:30 am, beating the crowds, easily found a space in P1 and then it was just a level walk through the main gate into the town. Again, we wandered the streets and Delcie hiked up the Torre Grossa (one of the aforementioned tall towers). I think she said it was 218 steps. I waited in the square in front of the Duomo.

We then headed back to our hotel for a relaxing afternoon - but not before we went down a street I knew of from other visits where you can get a great panorama shot of the town.

We went back into the town in the evening to have dinner. We sat on the terrace of the restaurant with its lovely views across the Tuscan countryside at dusk. Later, walking back through the town it was almost surreal. There were few people and these streets have not changed much since medieval times - except, of course, with the addition of shops.